15.02.2025

Mastering tricky dress codes: A gentleman’s guide to refinement

Navigating dress codes can be a minefield—black tie at noon, extravagant "Crazy Rich Asians" themes. How does a gentleman stay stylish while respecting etiquette? Here’s how to strike the perfect balance between refinement and social expectations.

Photo for illustration only. Photo credit: Tom Claeren.

 

Hi GC,

First off, I have to say, Ask The Gentleman is a lifesaver. It’s like having a classy older brother who always knows how to conduct—not just throwing advice around, but actually making sense of this crazy world of etiquette and relationship.

Now, I need that wisdom more than ever. I was recently invited to a luncheon that, for some reason, required black tie—in the middle of the day. Yes, you read that right. The sun was at peak, birds were chirping, and yet, there I was, expected to dress like it was a glamorous evening gala. Then came another invitation, this time for a soiree with a dress code of “Crazy Rich Asians” style—which, from what I can tell, means dressing in over-the-top designer pieces that scream, Look at me, I have money!

Here’s my dilemma: A gentleman should respect the dress code, but also maintain a sense of refinement, right? As your article pointed out, wearing a tuxedo before 6 PM goes against the decorum, and dressing like a human gold bar doesn’t exactly scream “old money elegance.” So how do I play along while still looking polished and tasteful?

Looking forward to your advice—before I get another invite that demands white tie for brunch. 🤣

Best,

Alif

Answer by The Gentleman:

Hi Alif,

Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words about Ask The Gentleman. It’s always a pleasure to help navigate these delightful—and sometimes confounding—sartorial challenges.

Danial Deen Isa-Kalebic at Istana Nurul Iman, Brunei in Jan 2024.

Photo: @asri_abas3112

 

For the Daytime Black Tie Luncheon:
The traditional black tie look is indeed a fixture of evening affairs, yet if the invitation specifies it for a luncheon, it’s best to respect that standard. You might opt for a classic tuxedo, but consider subtle adjustments to suit the daytime setting. For instance, excluding the cummerbund can convey the required formality without feeling out of place in the sunlit ambiance. Stick with a crisp white shirt and a black bow tie, and let the quality of your tailoring and patented black leather shoes speak for itself.

Bon Zainal menswear.

 

For the ‘Crazy Rich Asians’ Soiree:
Here, the challenge is to strike a balance between exuberance and timeless elegance. Instead of ostentatious logos or flashy accessories, focus on immaculate tailoring and refined details. A bespoke suit in a subtle yet luxurious fabric (think mohair-silk blend), paired with goodyear-welted construction shoes and a vintage timepiece, will communicate sophistication without crossing into excess. The key is to channel one's appreciation for heritage and craftsmanship rather than its more theatrical elements. After all, heritage triumph over materialistic objects.

Ultimately, the key is to navigate these tricky waters with quiet confidence. A gentleman never disregards a dress code, but he does interpret it with discretion. After all, the essence of gentlemanly style is about honoring the occasion while remaining true to your own refined taste.

I trust these suggestions will serve you well—and should a white tie brunch ever come knocking, I’m sure you’ll be more than ready.

 

With sincere appreciation and respect,

The Gentleman

READ: Daytime Black-Tie: A Kuala Lumpur sartorial dilemma

READ: How to Dress like a Royal, for the Important Occasions

READ: Danial Deen Isa Kalebic - The masterclass of black-tie elegance


Gentlemen's Code has your back! We're thrilled to announce our brand new section on our website: "Ask the Gentleman". Submit your burning questions on all things refined living, health & fitness, relationships, culture, style, and etiquette by emailing to: editor@gentlemanscodes.com.

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