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19.09.2024

Roger Dubuis The Orbis in Machina: Excalibur for the modern gentleman

Discover the Roger Dubuis The Orbis in Machina, a masterpiece of haute horlogerie. With 19 hand-finishing techniques and a central tourbillon, this exclusive timepiece embodies excellence and artistry for the sophisticated collector.

By Victor Goh, Watch contributor

Photo: Giorgio Armani & Roger Dubuis

 

When one thinks of Roger Dubuis, the legendary Excalibur watch naturally comes to mind, a true symbol of power, mystique, and artistry in horology. Much like the community at GC, which strives for the pinnacle of manly excellence, the Excalibur embodies the constant pursuit of ideal version of perfection. Just as King Arthur’s knights sought the legendary sword, we at GC seek the most noble version of ourselves, united in our journey for excellence—much like the collective efforts of the Knights of the Round Table.

Recently, I had the privilege of visiting the Roger Dubuis boutique in Pavilion KL, Malaysia, where I encountered a timepiece that embodies the very essence of what a true collector's watch should be: Roger Dubuis The Orbis in Machina.

A Masterpiece of Artistry and Engineering

The Orbis in Machina is not merely a watch; it's a testament to the heights of watchmaking excellence and artistry. From the moment I lay eyes on it, I was struck by the harmonious interplay of curves and finishes across multiple layers, visible through both the front and back display cases. This visual symphony is the result of an astounding 19 hand-finishing techniques, each applied with meticulous care and precision.

A Watch of Contrasts

What sets the Orbis in Machina apart is its duality. The front face presents a strikingly contemporary design, with its central tourbillon surrounded by concentric circles in contrasting pink gold and grey. This modern aesthetic is beautifully juxtaposed with the caseback view, which reveals a more classical approach to haute horlogerie, rich in elaborate detailing and traditional finishing techniques.

Technical Marvel

At the heart of this masterpiece lies the manual-winding Calibre RD115, a flying tourbillon movement that showcases Roger Dubuis' technical prowess. Roger Dubuis has long been associated with tourbillon distinction, having developed its own line of in-house tourbillon movements over the course of more than 20 years. The central placement of the tourbillon is not just visually striking but also a feat of engineering, requiring innovative solutions for hand placement and movement architecture.

Exclusive Rarity

With only 88 pieces produced, the Orbis in Machina is truly a watch for a select few with elite taste. Its 45mm pink gold case houses a world of horological wonders, each detail a testament to the craftsman's skill and the maison's innovative spirit. The ultimate reward for this dynamic skeletonized approach is the Poinçon de Genève certification, one of the most demanding signatures in fine watchmaking. Along with provenance and reliability, it sets the benchmark for quality as well as craftsmanship.

The Contemporary Face

The Central Monotourbillon is indeed a rare sight within watchmaking. In creation, it poses a number of challenges, such as finding a different way to display the hands, while also redistributing the movement’s components around the tourbillon itself.

Naturally, Roger Dubuis has embraced that challenge with both hands. From the front, this 45mm timepiece is therefore contemporary as well as captivating.

Starting at the middle, the designers have worked outwards, delivering an aesthetic purity through contrasting concentric circles in pink gold and grey that indicate the seconds, minutes, and hours. It’s an overall reinterpretation of the skeleton style, allowing the watchmakers to play with the space and glorify the tourbillon by placing it at the centre.

The 3D discs for the minutes and hours displays are particularly prominent and are contrasted by open-worked flying hands, mounted on ball bearings, that are double-sided and sharp. This particular display required the invention of a patent- pending system, which can safely disengage the hands and allow the watch to be set with assured stability.

A Personal Encounter

Witnessing the Orbis in Machina firsthand was a moment of pure awe, an experience that transcended the ordinary. Standing before this masterpiece, I felt the presence of King Arthur himself, as though he were silently nodding in approval of my own quest for greatness. It was as if time stood still, much like when Alexander the Great honored his hero Achilles at the tomb in Troy—a powerful connection between myth and reality, where the past fuels the pursuit of excellence in the present.

The Orbis in Machina is more than just a watch; it's a wearable work of art that embodies the pinnacle of watchmaking. It's a piece that speaks to the sophisticated man who appreciates not just the finer things in life, but the artistry, innovation, and dedication that goes into creating true excellence.

For those of us at GC, the Orbis in Machina serves as a tangible reminder of our own quest for excellence. Witnessing it in person was a privilege, a reminder that some treasures are crafted for the refined few, just as the pursuit of gentlemanly excellence remains a noble quest for those of us at GC.

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