The gentleman’s spring wardrobe for 2025

The Ivy League - Ralph Lauren, ZEGNA, Ralph Lauren

1. The Ivy League

One cannot help but be transported to the halcyon days of Hyannis Port when witnessing the triumphant return of American aristocratic dress. The Kennedy's mystique—that ineffable quality that merged political power with patrician ease—infuses this season's most compelling ensembles.

I recently encountered the Duke of Westminster sporting precisely this aesthetic at a private luncheon at Annabel's: a brass-buttoned navy blazer of impeccable cut, paired with stone chinos featuring a perfect break above cordovan penny loafers. The subtle mastery lies in the details—the weight of a cashmere sweater draped precisely at the shoulders, the slight dimple in a regimental silk tie, the faint monogram on French cuffs.

This is clothing for men who need not announce their arrival; their presence is felt rather than declared.

The Riviera Refinement - Mac Bakar (photo credit: @emistames), Brioni, Pal Zileri, Ralph Lauren

2. The Riviera Refinement

Having recently returned from an extended sojourn along the Amalfi Coast—where I was fortunate enough to share a sunset aperitivo with an Italian marquess of distinguished lineage—I can attest to the transformative power of Mediterranean-inspired elegance.

The modern gentleman embraces a certain languid sophistication in his resort attire: unstructured blazers in textured linen the color of sun-bleached limestone, paired with trousers cut precisely to catch the sea breeze without surrendering dignity. What distinguishes the aristocrat from the mere holidaymaker is the studied nonchalance with which these garments are worn.

A Belgian ambassador I encountered in Portofino demonstrated this principle brilliantly—his knit polo revealed the subtle hand of a third-generation Neapolitan craftsman, his espadrilles bore the discrete signature of a workshop that has served the Spanish royal family for centuries.

Indigo Authority - Danial Deen Isa-Kalebic (photo credit: danialik.rangers), Brioni, Boggi Milano

3. Indigo Authority

One might be forgiven for assuming denim remains the province of the working class, yet this season's offerings prove otherwise. The deepest indigo, treated with the reverence typically reserved for fine cashmere, emerges as the thinking man's alternative to formal trousers.

At a recent diplomatic gathering at my club, I noted with approval a former Foreign Secretary pairing immaculately tailored Japanese selvedge with a bespoke sport coat in the subtlest of Prince of Wales checks. The effect was commanding without being ostentatious—precisely the balance one should strike when navigating between tradition and contemporary relevance.

Remember that the finest denim, like the finest brandy, requires minimal adornment to demonstrate its quality.

The Suede's Quiet Declaration - Brioni, ZEGNA, BOSS

4. The Suede's Quiet Declaration

If there exists a material that whispers rather than shouts one's understanding of luxury, it is surely suede. This season's jackets—whether in burnished tobacco or the green of aged copper—provide a tactile pleasure that synthetic materials can never hope to emulate.

During an intimate dinner at Château Lafite, I observed the crown prince of a certain Scandinavian monarchy wearing a suede blouson that had clearly aged alongside its distinguished owner, gaining character with each passing season.

Such an investment piece demands proper stewardship—my personal valet employs a century-old technique involving specialty brushes from Vienna and a proprietary weatherproofing formula whose recipe is guarded as jealously as any state secret.

The Articulated Loafers - Prince Mateen, Boggi Milano

5. The Articulated Loafers

A gentleman may be judged by many measures, but few are as telling as his choice of footwear. This season's defining statement comes in the form of suede loafers featuring contrast outsoles—a subtle innovation that signals both respect for tradition and an eye for contemporary flourish.

At the Royal Enclosure at Ascot, I noted how these distinctive shoes allowed one to identify fellow connoisseurs across crowded lawns. The true test of such footwear is not merely its aesthetic appeal but its capacity for graceful aging. The patina that develops through proper use—never abuse—tells the story of journeys taken and thresholds crossed with purpose and dignity.

A Final Observation

As we navigate this season of renewal, let us remember that true elegance is never acquired but rather inherited—if not through bloodline, then through the cultivation of taste over time. The gentleman who incorporates these elements into his wardrobe does so not to follow trends but to express the continuity of refined living that connects him to generations past and future.

After all, in certain circles, being merely fashionable is the most egregious faux pas of all. Style, like good breeding, should appear effortless even when it is the result of careful consideration and centuries of collective wisdom.

Photos courtesy of respective brands.

Yours in taste and timelessness,
Harrison Montgomery