18.07.2024

Necktie: A gentleman's timeless accessory

Necktie remains an enduring symbol of elegance and personal expression.

By Amir Benzaki

Pierce Brosnan as James Bond | Getty

In the world of men's fashion, few accessories can rival the timeless elegance and expressive power of the necktie. From its storied origins to its evolution into a symbol of sophistication, the necktie remains an essential piece in a gentleman's wardrobe. Join us as we explore the rich history, intricate craftsmanship, and enduring appeal of this iconic accessory that continues to define gentlemanly style across the ages.

The Origin

The necktie has a storied history that dates back to the 17th century. Originally worn by Croatian mercenaries during the Thirty Years' War, these early neckties, or "cravats," captivated the fashion-conscious French aristocracy. King Louis XIV of France took a particular liking to the cravat, popularizing its use among nobility. From these beginnings, the necktie evolved into a staple of men's fashion, embodying style, status, and personality in gentlemen's wardrobes worldwide. Its significance lies not only in its ability to complement formal attire but also in its role as a statement piece. Whether subtly matching or boldly contrasting, the necktie has long been a canvas for personal expression and style.

It's an Identity

Neckties are more than mere accessories; they are statements. The use of patterns in neckties can express not only personal taste but also signify membership and affiliation. Regimental ties, for example, feature stripes of specific colors and widths, a tradition believed to have started with the British military, where each regiment has its own distinctive tie. These ties serve as badges of honor, conveying a sense of history and belonging.

The tradition has extended beyond the military to various civilian institutions, including academia, clubs, and societies. Wearing a regimental tie not only adds a touch of history and heritage to an outfit but also signals one's connection to a specific group or tradition, adding depth to the wearer's ensemble.

Polka dot effect geometric patterned silk tie | Zegna

A Work of Art

Unlike mass-produced ties, a traditional tie is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Each tie begins with carefully selected fabric, often silk, cut on the bias to ensure it hangs perfectly. It is then intricately stitched together, with an interlining added for structure and weight. This process, often done by hand, results in a tie that is both elegant and durable.

The pinnacle of tie craftsmanship is the seven-fold tie. Made entirely from a single piece of silk, it is folded seven times without an interlining, creating a luxurious, substantial feel. This labor-intensive process results in a tie that drapes beautifully and exudes sophistication, a true testament to the art of tie-making.

Pretty Knotty

Choosing the right knot is essential to achieving the perfect look. Different knots suit various facial shapes and personal styles. For example, the Windsor knot, with its wide and symmetrical shape, is ideal for individuals with longer faces, while the Four-in-Hand knot, with its slender and asymmetrical form, suits those with rounder faces.

One of the lesser-known but charming knots is the Prince Albert, my personal favorite. Named after the consort of Queen Victoria (although there is no evident to support that it has anything to do with him), this knot is essentially a double Four-in-Hand. When done correctly, it retains a compact form with a twist from the double wrap, making it stylish yet subtly elegant, suitable for both professional and social settings. Its simplicity in tying and its asymmetrical shape make it my go-to choice, adding a touch of sprezzatura without overwhelming the ensemble.

Felipe VI wears a four-in-hand. The four-in-hand (or the double four-in-hand) is the only knot you should wear. It is small, tasteful, and doesn't create a meatball sized knot underneath your chin. The asymmetry gives a sense of ease. | Derek Guy (twitter)

The Decline in wearing tie in Malaysia

In contemporary Malaysia, however, the necktie's popularity has seen a significant decline, notably within the halls of power. The decision by Dewan Rakyat Speaker Tan Sri Johari Abdul to allow Members of Parliament to forgo neckties during parliamentary sessions reflects this shift. Even Prime Minister Datuk Seri Anwar Ibrahim, known for his more casual approach to dressing, often opts to go without one. I vividly recall a day when I was waiting for a client in a coffee shop within a government office building. A fellow gentleman, noticing my necktie, remarked that I should lose it since even the Prime Minister no longer wears one. This casual attitude towards neckwear signifies a departure from tradition, yet it also underscores the necktie's role as a personal choice rather than a compulsory item.

Embracing Tradition in Modernity

In a world where fashion trends come and go, the necktie stands as a timeless accessory that bridges tradition with modernity. Though perhaps less prevalent in modern Malaysian society, it remains an enduring symbol of elegance and personal expression for showcasing a gentleman's style and attention to detail. Whether through the rich history of regimental ties, the meticulous craftsmanship of traditional and seven-fold ties, or the artful choice of knots, the necktie continues to define sophistication and refinement in men's fashion.

Contributor

Amir Benzaki

Amir Benzaki is a realtor, with profound appreciation for gentlemanly culture and timeless elegance. He finds solace in his passion for suit-making at the small sartoria he owns. Balancing his professional life with his love for classic tailoring.

Instagram: @amirbenzaki

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