OMG! Unforgettable Takeen Omakase’s culinary masterpiece

The exterior alone set the stage -bamboo walls transported me instantly to the narrow streets of Kyoto, where some of my most memorable culinary adventures have unfolded. But it was the genuine warmth of the greeting that truly signaled this would be no ordinary experience. The maitre d' and chefs called out their welcome with such authentic enthusiasm that I felt less like a customer and more like an honored guest arriving for a private performance.

Seated at the bar-style counter - the stage where culinary theater unfolds - I found myself face-to-face with Chef Thomas Chan, whose eyes sparkled with anticipation as he explained the evening's journey: kappo omakase, the refined style that balances raw and cooked elements in perfect harmony. Like any great artist, he seemed eager to share his creation with an appreciative audience.

L to R: The bar-style counter and Umeshu.

Before the first morsel arrived, Chef Chan introduced us to the restaurant's signature libation - house-brewed Umeshu that undergoes a year-long fermentation process. The concept delighted me: regular patrons purchase their own jar, which remains at the restaurant, awaiting their return. This sweet-sour plum liqueur, with its perfect balance of fruitiness and depth, becomes a personal touchstone for each guest's ongoing relationship with Takeen Omakase.

L to R: Okazu and The Hajime course.

Our journey began with Okazu, the welcome dish that functioned precisely as an overture should - hinting at themes to come while standing magnificent on its own. A delicate rice cracker crowned with pristine sashimi created a textural dialogue that awakened every sensory receptor. The crisp crack giving way to silken fish was nothing short of symphonic.

The Hajime course - silken tofu adorned with Spanish caviar - proved Chef Chan's commitment to thoughtful sourcing. "After experimenting with various options," he explained, "I found Spanish caviar provides the perfect complement without overwhelming the tofu's subtle character." The bonito sauce that united these elements was the culinary equivalent of a perfectly resolved chord progression - harmonious and deeply satisfying.

L to R: Umi, and The Otsukuri course.

With Umi, the chilled course, I experienced that magical dimension unique to Japanese cuisine - the way citrus elements don't merely accompany raw fish but transform it entirely, creating something greater than the sum of its parts. I closed my eyes briefly, transported to memories of my first proper sashimi experience in Tokyo years ago.

The Otsukuri course - our sashimi selection -represented the pinnacle of sourcing excellence. Hokkaido scallops garnished with gold leaf dissolved on the tongue with supernatural tenderness. Two-day aged red snapper demonstrated Chef Chan's deep understanding of traditional aging techniques that intensify the fish's natural sweetness. The torched shima aji (striped jack) was a masterclass in textural contrast, but it was the kamatoro tuna from Nagasaki that nearly moved me to tears - that precious cut from the gill area delivered a meltingly tender texture rivaling A5 Miyazaki beef.

L to R: The steamed Jitate course, Tajima Wagyu, and The Kamado course.

The steamed Jitate course revealed Chef Chan's technical precision. His chawanmushi topped with delicate crabmeat and brightened with yuzu zest achieved a silky consistency I've rarely encountered. "The secret," he confided, "is controlling the temperature below 100 degrees." This attention to subtle technique is exactly what separates good Japanese cuisine from the transcendent.

Then came the climactic moment - Tajima Wagyu, specifically A5 Miyazaki short rib, braised for eight hours to sublime tenderness. Here was beef transformed into something almost ethereal, accompanied by earthy nameko mushrooms that grounded the experience. I found myself slowing down, stretching each bite to extend the pleasure as long as possible.

The Kamado course bridged cultures brilliantly - steamed rice with baby sardines wrapped in Houba leaves that Chef Chan described as his award-winning fusion of Japanese technique with Malaysian influence. The fermented barley and pickled cucumber accompaniments provided the perfect counterpoint, balancing the richness that preceded it.

Tanoshii, and Uji Matcha.

Our finale, Tanoshii, appeared as a crystalline raindrop - konjac jelly served alongside fried paddy and Okinawa black sugar. This gossamer-light dessert cleared the palate without overwhelming it, the fried paddy adding a playful textural note. A freshly prepared Uji Matcha concluded our experience - the grassy, slightly bitter notes providing the perfect punctuation mark to an extraordinary narrative.

Chef Thomas Chan.

As I sipped my matcha, I realized Chef Thomas Chan had achieved something rare - he had crafted not just a meal but a coherent story with emotional resonance. Each course built upon the last, creating tension and release, surprise and comfort. This was Japanese cuisine interpreted through a singular vision and executed with remarkable skill.

For those who truly appreciate the artistry of Japanese gastronomy - or anyone seeking to understand why some of us build our travel itineraries around reservations - Takeen Omakase offers something beyond mere sustenance. It offers transformation.

Days later, I find myself closing my eyes, attempting to recapture the kamatoro's texture, the precise harmony of the tofu and caviar. I've already made another reservation. Some performances demand an encore.

All photos are writer’s own.

Takeen Omakase

Address: Lot 5-G, Wisma Elken, Lorong 4/137c, Bedford Business Park, 58200 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur

Phone: 018-220 0352

Menu: takeenomakase.com